Our Lemosho-Western Breach-Crater Route (9 days on the mountain) is plain and simply the best route to experience the thrill of climbing Kilimanjaro.
It is one of the least crowded routes, it is one of the most fascinating and it is long enough to provide proper acclimatization. We use essentially the same route as the IMAX team during the filming of "Kilimanjaro: To the Roof of Africa".
Anyone can do it! We've guided 11 y/o kids and grandfathers in their 70s safely up the Western Breach!
When the Western Breach is closed due to excessive snow or potential for rock falls, we follow the equally impressive Lemosho-Stella Point-Crater Route.
Itinerary
At breakfast we drink as much water as we can!
After breakfast, we drive north east to the town of Londorossi where we must complete some paperwork at the warden's office. Then we drive for another hour on a muddy and slippery road to the starting point at Lemosho where our porters are waiting.
While one of our guides stays behind to organize the porters, we begin our trek around noon at an altitude of 7500 ft. The walk is absolutely beautiful and our pace is slow to assist with acclimatization. Along the way we may see fresh elephant dung! Fortunately these elephants are very elusive!
The guides will stop frequently to point out some interesting plants. We identify many different kinds of trees such as juniper, olive and Nuxia congesta.
The scenery will change often; at some points the forest is thick and dark. In open areas we may see a few colorful flowers!
The trail is slippery when it rains so we walk carefully. Every now and then our legs get scraped with nettle plants. Some climbers develop a rash so we recommend you wear long pants during today's hike. Also watch the ground for safari ants. Their bites burn! Stamp your feet when you're near ants and roll your socks over your long pants.
An hour or so after starting the climb, we stop for lunch. You will be surprised at the feast that awaits you! A lunch buffet table, comfortable chairs, a portable toilet. This is Kibo-style and it's much appreciated.
The rest of the climb is mildly strenuous at times but the hills are short. Some of the downhill stretches are quite steep so we use our poles to prevent us from slipping and sliding!
Don't forget to take pictures! The forest is now at its most beautiful.
We continue to climb slowly and reach our camp about 2 hours after our lunch stop.
Our camp is in the montane forest at 9,000 ft. Everything will be ready for our arrival. Tonight we will have about an hour or so before dinner, so we have some time to get organized for the evening.
We must eat well tonight. At the higher altitudes we may lose appetite so these first few days are important for building up energy reserves. We must also drink at least another liter of water before going to bed.
Darkness comes early in the forest and the clear sounds of the night remind us that we are far away from home. We are finally camping on the slopes of Kilimanjaro!
Breakfast is served at 7:30 and we start our walk before 8:30am.
The hike from the Forest Camp to our lunch stop is easy. After lunch, we will hike mostly uphill for long steep stretches until we arrive at the Shira Ridge. The last hour will be an easy stroll across the plateau.
We start off with a short steep climb. In the early morning the colobus monkeys are noisy but they are hard to spot! After about 2 hours we stop for a quick snack— we eat energy food such as peanuts and chocolate bars.
Soon afterwards, the forest clears and we enter the heather zone. We see plants such as Erica arborea and Philippia excelsa. This is a good time to cover up with sunscreen as the temperature often reaches a sunny 75º F or warmer.
In this area we may see illegal beehives. Beekeepers often set the forest on fire (by accident) when they create smoke, so they've been banished!
The ground vegetation continues to change and new types of plants appear around every corner. Look for the chair-like tussock grasses!
In the open landscape we can now see the trail ahead as it winds along the ridges of Shira. It is clear that we have some hiking to do before this day is over!
About 3 hours after leaving Forest Camp, we will reach the top of a hill where we can see our lunch stop in the clearing below.
The downhill walk is pleasant and we increase our pace a bit because after lunch, we will hike mostly uphill along the Shira ridges.
We reach our lunch stop around noon. It is time to kick back and enjoy the beautiful surroundings. This is another opportunity to eat and drink as much as we can.
After lunch we immediately start a very steep hike for about 30 minutes, and then we follow one ridge after another—hiking higher and higher as we get closer to the upper slopes of Shira.
Behind us, clouds may start to roll in—a common afternoon occurrence on Kilimanjaro.
Around 2:30pm we reach the high-point of the day and turn west for an easy 20-minute walk to the western edge of Shira. Suddenly, on the right, we see Kibo for the first time!
To the north and north-west, we see the Shira Plateau and we take a short rest and photo opportunity before we hike the final stretch across the plateau to Shira 1 Camp at 10,965 ft.
We reach camp around 4pm. In the late afternoon the clouds often clear away and we are treated with a magnificent view of the Western Breach in the distance!
Breakfast is served at 8:00 and we start our walk before 9:00am.
Today's hike is nor very long with just one steep section at the end of the trek. The Shira Plateau is truly beautiful with interesting plants, rock formations and several water streams.
When we wake up this morning we will see the sun rise behind Kibo, and this magnificent view will be in front of us all day. We start with a very short climb before the trail flattens out for a very pleasant walk.
To our right, we can see the Shira Cathedral and behind us the Shira Ridge will slowly fade into the distance.
We are hiking at an altitude of 11,500 ft but most climbers have no problems with this part of the trek.
Early on in the day we cross a refreshing stream, reminding us to stop frequently and enjoy the beautiful scenery. Then it's a short uphill walk to a section that reminds us of the heather zone of yesterday. We are now in an area well-known for eland and buffalo, so we look for fresh tracks.
Soon we cross back into moorland and the lava ridges of Kilimanjaro are now closer in front of us. Our next camp is on the first major ridge, but we still have another 2-3 hours to go!
On the left, we follow a stream with many caves. In the old days, this was lion country and the caves were lion hideaways.
We also see a 4x4 track used by the rescue vehicles.
Around noon we find ourselves in senecio country! We always stop to take pictures of the majestic Senecio Kilimanjari which grows into a small tree up to 15 ft high.
A bit further up the hill we see our first Lobelia Deckenii. To protect their sensitive buds in the central core, the outer leaves close at night!
Around 1pm we reach the top of the ridge in time for lunch. The views are spectacular! We are at Fischer Camp, so named in memory of the American guide who died on Everest but who was one of the first guides to explore the Western Breach of Kilimanjaro.
We are at 12,230 ft. We eat lunch and visit the Fischer memorial before continuing the trek for another 2 hours to our overnight stop. Along the way we have one rather steep section but there are several flatter areas to save some energy!
Once we are beyond the steep section, we hike next to a dramatic rock section with caves and overhangs.
Soon afterwards we see a strange structure to the northwest in the distance! This is an old hut at Moir Camp - our stopover.
Moir Hut is at 13700ft (4175m). It is about 3pm—time to take a shower and a well-earned rest.
Breakfast is served at 8:00 and we start our walk before 9:00am.
Today's hike to a camp at Lava Tower is short, but it's steeper than yesterday with at least 2 long uphill
sections. The day starts with a short steep section. Due to the altitude, some climbers will feel less energetic than yesterday! It is time for energy drinks and bars.
As the sun rises higher, the views are stunning. Looking towards Kibo we can see the trail ahead crossing several ridges and valleys. Behind us, the Shira Ridge, Shira 1 and Fischer Camps are fading in the distance.
After an hour or so, Mount Meru appears in the distance. We get an idea of how far away we are from Arusha!
After the initial few ridges, the scenery starts to change. We are leaving the moorland and are now in the alpine zone. These are inhospitable conditions where it freezes every night. Plant life is reduced to mosses, lichens and a few everlasting flowers.
The trail can now get very dusty and we spread out a bit to avoid each other's dust! Wet bandanas and wet wipes come in handy to keep our faces clean!
The first of a few long uphill stretches awaits us about an hour into the trek.
As we slowly make our way uphill, we can see the Machame route camp sites. Using binoculars, we can see a long stream of porters and trekkers leaving these camps for the Lava Tower area.
The long uphill hike continues to a point where our trail meets up with the Machame route. Here we take a break while watching many large groups walk by. It is strange to see so many other climbers. Until now we basically had the mountain to ourselves!
After the break, we follow the convoy of trekkers and porters to Lava Tower.
Along the way, we climb down a steep gap in the rocks before we reach the final uphill stretch of the day.
The last uphill walk is long and seemingly never-ending! But then we see the recognizable shape of the Lava Tower and we are only a few hundred yards away from our camp.
We reach Camp around 1:30pm.
Today's hike was not easy and the altitude of 14,235ft tapped our energy. Some climbers are starting to lose appetite. We must focus on eating and drinking as much as we can!
After lunch it's time for a nap. Tomorrow is a rest day to help with acclimatization!
Breakfast is served between 8:00 and 9:00am.
Today we dry out our clothes and we focus on our bodies.
Those who still suffer from mild AMS should go on a 2-hour acclimatization hike to the top of Lava Tower and back. Regular headache pills normally relieve the mild throbbing symptoms. Lava Tower is almost 16,000 feet high and is a great place to acclimatize to higher altitude.
Those who feel tired should rest and try to restore energy with energy drinks and food.
Either way, we listen to our bodies or we discuss our concerns with the guides. They will suggest various remedies (such as Diamox) depending on the situation. We must drink plenty of water!
Breakfast is served at 9:00 and we depart at 10:30am.
Today is a very short but very steep climb.
After just a few minutes we cross a small stream and then it's a hour-long steep uphill trek on loose scree (gravel). The views from the top of this ridge are amazing. Looking back we see the Lava Tower Camp and our trail.
We are now in the vicinity of the Great Barranco to our right. In front of us, we face another steep climb to a series of rocks. This section takes about an hour as our pace has slowed down to allow for the gains in altitude.
The scramble section at the top of the ridge poses no problems.
Once on top of the rocks, we face a short but steep trek over loose stones. We are careful not to twist an ankle.
After 3 hours of climbing, we reach Arrow Glacier Camp at around 1pm in time for lunch.
This camp is at 15,958 ft and we can feel the cold. This is no place to lounge outside and we retire to the mess tent or our own tents to warm up.
Fog or icy rain is common in the early afternoon and visibility is poor so we normally postpone picture taking until early evening when it clears up and the Western Breach becomes visible high above us.
We are 1 night away from our biggest challenge on this trek—the famous Western Breach of Kilimanjaro!
Today we will introduce you to the Western Breach!
It will be a steep climb at altitude but the views are spectacular. It is our favorite part of the whole trek and you will soon see why!
Our route is marked in yellow in the picture. As you can see we zig-zag our way up the Breach to slow down our ascent and to negate the steepness.
A light breakfast snack is served at 4:45am and we start our walk shortly thereafter. It is safer to climb the Breach in the morning while the ground is still frozen.
The first part is gentle as we step carefully over loose boulders. Looking back, we can see the porters in the distance at our Arrow Glacier camp.
On clear mornings we can see the Lava Tower and even the Shira Ridge—we can almost trace our path to this point!
Within the first 90 minutes we reach an easy scrambling section after which we can see the Barranco Wall and camp site in the distance on the left.
We stick close to the rock ridge for protection against rare rock falls. The walk is very steep but in general it is a comfortable slow hike on the ridge. We rest often to enjoy the stunning views below and above us. Energy drinks and snacks are now in high demand!
Between 7:30am and 8am we reach an area with magnificent rock formations. This is an unstable area and our guides will keep a watchful eye.
Just after 9am we reach a giant stair case. This is the scramble we've all heard about! The truth is, it takes only 10-15 minutes to traverse this section if you have experienced guides who know exactly where to step.
The reward is waiting at the top of the stairs —snacks and a 30-minute break.
Many climbers are surprised to learn that the crater rim is still about 90 minutes away! Luckily the scrambling part is over. What's left is a very steep hike to the rim— made more complicated by the thin air. We have to dig deep here but the excitement of reaching the rim is pushing us upwards.
And then we are there! On our left, we see the Northern Ice field and on our right, the Furtwangler glacier. Most hikers make it to the rim by 11am.
We begin a 30-minute walk past the glacier to the foot of Uhuru Peak—the site of our Crater Camp at 18,500 ft!
We have reached the snows of Kilimanjaro!
It is about noon and some of us will head straight to the tents to relax before lunch. Others may walk to the glacier to touch it. A few tough souls may walk to the actual crater and back — a 90 min return hike.
We have come a long way. We have mastered the Western Breach!
If the weather is good and we feel strong, our guides may suggest to hike to the summit of Kilimanjaro about 90 minutes away! At this time of day there will be almost no-one at the summit - a very different experience than the 6am summit crunch when hundreds of trekkers line up for a picture next to the famous sign.
We can return to the summit the next morning to watch the sunrise! It is really an incredible luxury to be able to summit twice in one trek - many of our clients do this and they love the flexibility!
Breakfast is served around 6:00 and we depart soon after.
Appetites are normally severely suppressed but we must try to eat and drink as much as we can. Energy food and drinks are most useful now.
As shown we leave our camp and head straight up for 800 ft to Uhuru Peak. In clear conditions the views of the crater and glaciers are stunning. But bad weather can turn the climb into a surreal experience—almost like walking on the moon!
We reach the famous landmark after about 90 minutes. It is time to revel in a moment of triumph that we'll remember for the rest of our lives.
Uhuru Peak! 19,340ft
We stay at the summit for 15-45 minutes, or until we run out of film and/or batteries!
Then we slowly make our way down to Stella Point where the next challenge awaits!
The way down is either a lot of fun or pure hell—depending on how your legs adapt to the downhill conditions. It's like walking down a huge sand dune! We reach Barafu Camp after about 4 hours for lunch and a rest.
But the day is not over yet.
We must continue down the mountain for another 3 hours of stiff downhill walking.
We reach Mweka Camp in the late afternoon, and scramble to be first in the shower!
Dinner tonight is a joyous celebration! It's our last night on Kilimanjaro.
Breakfast is served at 8:00 and we depart at 9:00am.
Today is a short but steep downhill walk through the rain forest to the park gate.
When it rains, the trail is muddy and very slippery. We use our poles to prevent knee or ankle injuries.
There are many other climbers on this trail and plenty of stories and experiences to share. It is noisy all the way!
At the gate, we are treated with a final snack and drinks, and an opportunity to buy a few souvenirs! Then we sign the register and gather for the presentation of our climbing certificates by our guides, followed by a short tipping ceremony.
Sadly, it is time to say goodbye to our mountain team.
With their assistance, we achieved something extraordinary! We climbed Mount Kilimanjaro - the highest freestanding mountain in the world!